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By default, Apple runs your Mac’s fans automatically—with no way to configure them—and it ramps them up when your system gets too hot. The free Macs Fan Control app lets you manually control your fans. There are two reasons you’d want to do this—to allow your Mac to run faster but louder, or slower but quieter. Apple’s auto control aims for somewhere in the middle.

Your Mac throttles your CPU when it gets too hot, slowing it down significantly until the temperature gets under control. Usually, this kicks in before the temperature gets too high, but you can manually push your CPU farther by turning the fan speed up farther than Apple usually allows. This makes a lot of noise, which is why the auto-control tries to slow it down.

On the other hand, if you hate fan noise, you can manually turn them down. Keep in mind that this will make your system run a lot hotter, and could lead to system instability if you let it go too far.

With either option, you should monitor the temperatures of your CPU and other components and make sure you’re not causing damage to your system. It’s also possible that running fans at max speed for extended periods could lead to damage, so try not to torture your laptop.

Get started by downloading the Macs Fan Control app and moving it to the Applications folder. When it starts, you’ll see a list of all your fans and the option to set custom controls. “Auto” keeps the default behavior, but opening up “Custom” allows you to set a specific RPM value, or set a target temperature.

The sensor-based value option mimics the automatic behavior but lets you select how hot you want your system to be. You can push the maximum temperature higher if you want more performance, or lower if you’d like your fans to be quieter.

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You’ve got a shiny new device that charges via USB-C. Why wrestle with yet another power brick an instead go for a dedicated USB-C outlet?

Whether you’re thrilled about another standard or not, USB-C is here to stay. It’s smaller, more powerful, and more convenient than Micro USB or USB-A connections, and it’s quickly becoming the charging standard for cellphones. Even larger devices, like laptops, are adopting the USB-C charging standard. Hey, they’re cheaper than those bulky DC cables and easier to use across devices.

So, how do you plan on charging all of your USB-C compatible devices? You could leave a bunch of USB bricks in the outlets around your house, but not all power bricks are created equally. Some of them charge your phone a lot slower than they should, and they tend to take up some valuable outlet real-estate. No, it would be better to replace your old-fashioned outlets with some new USB-C outlets. That way, you can always charge your devices quickly, without sacrificing any AC outputs.

But if you’ve found yourself in the electronics section of a hardware store, then you know how overwhelming it can be to shop for a new outlet. Manufactures seem to enjoy their confusing variety of USB outlets, and two similar looking outlets can sometimes come at very different price points. That’s why we’ve taken the time to find the best USB-C outlets, and to explain how their minor differences may appeal to different people’s needs.

If you’re ready to fall into the loving arms of USB-C, then you should take a look at the TOPGREENER duel USB-C outlet. It has two USB-C ports and two AC outlets, so you can quickly charge your devices without hogging any outlet space. This kind of outlet would be especially useful in a bedroom or office, where you have to charge and power a lot of electronics. It may even save you from having to buy a bulky surge protector.

But if you want the option to plug USB-A cables into your outlets, then this clearly isn’t the way to go. After all, your USB-A or Micro USB powered devices may last for a few more years.

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Live Wallpapers are one of iOS’s neat if underused, features. It’s fun—and very Harry Potteresque—to have a bit of motion on your lock screen. But setting any old live photo isn’t going to give you great results: here’s how to make sure you’ve got a good one to use for wallpaper.

To set a live photo as your wallpaper, go to Settings > Wallpaper > Choose a New Wallpaper and then select your Live Photos album.

Select the live photo you want to use, make sure “Live Photo” is selected, and then tap Set > Set Both (or either “Set Lock Screen” or “Set Home Screen” if you only want it on one).

And just like that, you’ll have live wallpaper. Now, let’s look at getting a good live photo to use.

A live photo is, first and foremost, a photo. Most of the time your background will be still. This means that you need to make sure the still photo part looks great. You also want the transition to when the wallpaper is in motion to look natural. There are a couple of other key things you need to bear in mind:

• Wallpapers are vertical on iOS. For one of the first times ever, I’m recommending you shoot with your iPhone held vertical.
• A Live Photo records a few seconds before and after when you take the photo. This means you need to have a shot set up before you press the shutter button.
• For the transition to look good between the still and motion parts of the live photo, you need to keep your iPhone as still as possible while you take the shot. If you’ve got a tripod, use it. Otherwise, brace or rest your iPhone as well as you can.

The easiest good live photos to take are landscapes, especially if there’s moving water. You have plenty of time to line up the shot, make sure your camera is stable, and, since the motion is cyclical, they almost always look good.

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The built-in backup utilities in Windows are pretty solid. Let’s take a look at how to create a full backup image of your PC without the need for a third party utility.

1. Open the System Backup Image Tool. In Windows 10, head to Control Panel > Backup and Restore (Windows 7) > Create a System Image.
2. Choose where you want to save the backup image.
3. Select the drives to back up.
4. Start the backup.
5. Optionally, create a system repair disc that you can use to start your computer and restore a backup image.

Normal backup programs, like CrashPlan or Windows’ built-in File History feature, essentially copy your files to another location. A system image backup, on the other hand, is like a full snapshot of an entire hard drive. The advantage of a system image is that if a hard drive crashes, you can replace it, restore the image, and have your system right back to where it was when the image was captured. No need to reinstall Windows or your apps.

The biggest disadvantage with system image backups—other than taking a bit longer—is that you can’t restore the backup to a different PC. You’re creating an image of your full Windows installation and, since Windows is set up specifically for your hardware, it just won’t work as-is in another PC. It would be like trying to plug your hard drive into another PC and expecting everything to load well. With that in mind, though, image backups can still be really handy.

Third-party apps like like Macrium Reflect or Acronis True Image—at least, the paid versions—do offer some advanced features you won’t find in the Windows system image backup tool. For example, both support incremental backups, password protected images, and the ability to browse backups for individual files. But free is free, and if you don’t need the extra features, the Windows tool offers a solid way to perform a full backup of your system.

The process of finding the System Image Backup tool is different in Windows 7 than in Windows 8 and 10, so we’ll show you to find the tool in all versions, and then explain how to create and use the system image.

In Windows 10, hit Start, type “backup,” and then select the entry.

In the “Backup and Restore (Windows 7)” window, click the “Create a system image” link.

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1. Traffic Lights
2. Restaurant Hours
3. Video Game Releases
4. Movie Showings

Think you know the answer?

Apple Music is the way to listen to music on Apple’s devices, and while there are alternatives, the integration is second to none. There are some pretty great features, too—like being able to follow along with song lyrics.

Apple Music isn’t the only music streaming service available on Apple’s platforms, but even though Spotify and others are more than capable, there’s something about using software designed specifically for a platform and Apple Music is a great example of that. There’s plenty to love in there, too, and song lyrics is one of those features that you might not use an awful lot but are very glad to have when you can’t quite make out that one word in your new favorite song.

Unfortunately, Apple has a history of failing hard when it comes to making features discoverable, and this may be another example of that. It’s likely that you didn’t even know that Apple Music supports lyrics, so we’re here to not only remind you they exist but also to show you how to get to them. The method differs slightly depending on whether you’re listening on a Mac, Apple TV, or an iOS device, so let’s take a look at both options.

To get started, open the Music app and start playing the song for which you want to view the lyrics. Then, swipe up on the music controls at the bottom of the screen to see the “Now Playing” screen.

Finally, tap the “Show” button beside where it says “Lyrics.”

On a Mac, open iTunes (sorry, it’s the only way!) and start playing the song for which you want to view the lyrics. Next, click the “More” icon at the top of the screen and then click “Lyrics.”

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The holiday shopping season is over, but that doesn’t mean stores have stopped offering great deals. If you’ve been in the market for a smart speaker, there’s still time to grab an Echo or Google Home at a nice price.

Amazon is offering its own discounts on some Echo devices, including the 2nd-generation Echo for $69 (down from $99) and the 3rd-generation Echo Dot for $29 (down from $49).

Google is also still discounting its Google Home lineup in its online store, where you can grab a Home Hub for $99 (down from $149), a regular Home for $89 (down from $129), or a Home Mini for $29 (down from $49).

If you prefer to shop in-store, you’ll be pleased to know that many of these same deals are also still going on at most retailers, including Walmart, Target, and Best Buy. Best Buy even has the Apple HomePod on sale for $100 off.

Granted, these aren’t necessarily the best deals we’ve ever seen (Target recently offered an amazing deal for a Home Hub and two Home Minis for just $99), but if you missed all of the great deals during the shopping season, there’s still time to snag a smart speaker for less than retail price.

If you happened to get an Amazon Alexa device for the holidays, be careful when setting it up. There’s a new fake Alexa Setup app in the iOS App Store that is up to no good.

As pointed out by 9to5Mac, the app, called “Setup for Amazon Alexa,” is quickly climbing the Top Free app charts, even finding its way to the sixth spot in the Utilities section. Oof.

The good news is that it doesn’t seem to be as bad as it could be because it doesn’t immediately ask for your Amazon username and password, which could be catastrophically bad for many users (this is a good time to mention that you should always use 2FA on your Amazon account!). Instead, it simply asks for your Alexa device’s IP address and serial number. What they’re doing with that information is still the bigger question.

What’s more troubling is that the developer of this app, One World Software, has a couple of other questionable apps in the App Store—“Marketplace — Buy/Sell” and “Any Font for Instagram,” the former of which carries the same colors as Facebook. Shady, shady crap.

As always, pay attention to what you’re installing. In this case, if you’re trying to set up a new Alexa device, Amazon will always be the developer of the application (the exact name is AMZN Mobile). If it’s anyone else, it’s not the right app. And if you’re looking for help setting up your Amazon Echo (or other Alexa device), we have you covered.

RELATED: How to Set Up and Configure Your Amazon Echo

via 9to5Mac

If you have an Amazon Echo in your home and want to take your voice commands to the next level, installing some in-wall light switches will let you control your lights using your voice. Here are the best options that work with your Echo.

Granted, you could also go with smart bulbs, as they’re easier to install, but smart light switches are already a familiar format, so there won’t be any confusion for house guests. Plus, they already work with your existing light bulbs. As long you know how to change out a light switch (or know someone who can help), then smart light switches are a great way to go.

With that said, here are the best smart light switches that will work with your Amazon Echo.

If you’re looking for the best overall smart light switch, Lutron’s Caseta product line is pretty much the gold standard, and it works great with Alexa. You can grab a starter kit for $99 that comes with the hub, one smart dimmer switch, and one remote control.

Perhaps the one downside is that it requires the hub in order to connect the switches to your network and control them remotely, since it uses a proprietary RF wireless protocol. However, this makes for a incredibly reliable experience.

These switches come with all of the necessary features you would need out of a smart light switch, including setting schedules, timers, and randomizing lights, as well as create different scenes where you can set specific brightnesses for specific switches.

Caseta switches also don’t require a neutral wire, which is great for older houses that may not have one in the light switch box. Most modern houses have a neutral wire present, so this isn’t a big deal, but this makes Caseta switches a recommended buy for just about any house, new or old.

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Google Docs can split a document up into columns, which is excellent for making newsletters, pamphlets, and brochures. Here’s how you can separate parts of your document up into two or three columns in Google Docs.

Adding multiple columns to your documents in Google Docs is still a relatively new feature that people have been demanding for a while. With this addition, Google Docs continues to inch closer to the capabilities of Microsoft Word.

To start using columns in your file, click the “Format” menu, point to “Columns,” and choose either two or three columns.

You can also click the “More Options” option for some additional choices.

If you clicked “More Options,” the Column Options window that opens lets you choose how many columns you want, the exact spacing between columns, and whether or not to add a line between columns. Make your choices and then click “Apply.”

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If you’ve been thinking about picking up a Microsoft Office 365 subscription, Amazon’s Deal of the Day is a solid one for you: buy an Office 365 subscription for $99 and get a $50 Amazon gift card. It’s like paying $49 for Office 365.

Update: Despite having several hours left at the time of publication, this deal appears to be dead.

For the unfamiliar, Office 365 is Microsoft’s online, available-anywhere version of Office. Since it’s online, it stays up-to-date and saves your work in the cloud so your important files are always available. An Office 365 subscription also means you get full access to the suite of Office apps available for Android and iOS, making Office 365 the most versatile Office solution you can get.

Office 365 is always $99 a year for the Home version, but today’s deal is especially sweet since it essentially gets you $50 off (assuming you already shop at Amazon, of course). The deal is available for both new and existing users—the additional 12 months of access will stack on top of the current subscription for anyone who is already using the service.

If you’re in, head here to buy yours before the deal expires.

The iPad is great for watching YouTube or web browsing, but it’s increasingly common for people to use it instead of a laptop. Having a keyboard changes the game, and some great keyboard shortcuts can save you time when working.

The arrival of the iPad Pro and a keyboard that you can attach to the tablet 24/7 brought with it a change in approach for Apple. No longer is the iPad only a media consumption device; having a keyboard always at hand transforms the iPad into a more-than-capable computer. If you’re a long time Mac user who knows just which keys to press to bend macOS to your will, you’ll feel like a fish out of water when tapping away at an iPad. But that needn’t be the case.

Here, we’re going to run through twenty of the best keyboard shortcuts—ones that everyone who is serious about using an iPad instead of a laptop really ought to know.

Let’s get started!

• Cmd+Space: Opens Spotlight from anywhere in iOS
• Cmd+H: Returns to the Home screen.
• Cmd+Tab: Opens the iOS app switcher from anywhere in iOS and behaves similarly to the app switcher in macOS.
• Shift+Cmd+3: Takes a screenshot.
• Shift+Cmd+4: Takes a screenshot and immediately enters markup mode.
• Option+Cmd+D: Opens the Dock when inside an app.
• Press and hold Cmd: Displays a list of shortcuts for the app that you are currently using.

• Cmd+Up Arrow: Jumps to top of the page.
• Cmd+Down Arrow: Jumps to bottom of the page.
• Cmd+A: Selects all.
• Cmd+C: Copies the selected text.
• Cmd+X: Cuts the selected text.
• Cmd+V: Pastes the contents of the Clipboard.

• Cmd+F: Opens the “Find” dialog.
• Cmd+N: Opens Split View.
• Cmd+T: Opens a new tab.
• Cmd+W: Closes the current tab.
• Cmd+R: Refreshes the current tab.
• Cmd+[: Goes back a page in the current tab.

• Press the Down Arrow, then tap and hold the keyboard icon on-screen: Switches to the software keyboard, perfect for accessing the emoji picker.

Every year, smartphones come and go. Some stand out in the crowd, while others fall to the wayside. Regardless, every year one phone generally stands above the rest. This year is no different.

Picking an objective “best” smartphone of the year isn’t always an easy task, especially given the current state of smartphones. It’s no longer about major metrics like performance or battery life—most phones are just really good now. Really good. And in that respect, it’s hard to go wrong with any of the flagship phones.

But when you spend enough time using a variety of phones, as we do here at Review Geek, then you start to understand that it’s about refinements and a premium experience. The amount of smartphone you get for the money plays an important role in which device can be called the best one of the year. It’s a tight race, but despite that, this year’s pick was a surprisingly easy choice.

Our pick for smartphone of the year is…

When it comes down to it, selecting our pick for smartphone of the year was pretty simple. The XR is an incredibly premium device that offers the newest fit and finish that Apple has to offer. As we said in our review, it’s 98 percent of the XS experience at 75 percent of the cost. It’s not only one of the best smartphones of the year, but it offers an unprecedented value where the new iPhone are concerned.

That last bit is a key point, because while it’s still not what we would call “cheap,” it’s the most affordable new iPhone on the market while still offering a remarkably similar experience to the company’s pricier models. While many people consider the XS and XS Max Apple’s “flagship” smartphones, that’s not totally true—the XR is the flagship of this family; the XS and Max are the luxury models. Simply put, this is the smartphone for everyone.

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A big part of photography is coming up with creative ways to overcome the limits of the laws of physics. One of these techniques is focus stacking.

Even wide angle lenses at narrow apertures—a combination which gives you the broadest possible depth of field—can’t have both the extreme foreground and extreme background in sharp focus. You can come close, but if, say, there’s a cool shell right in front of you, and something else of interest in the distance, one or both of them is going to be a little bit blurry. Just look at this photo.

While it’s not bad, the shell is less sharp than I’d like while the castle on the island is in focus, or as much in focus as is possible with my setup.

Here’s a photo where I focused on the shell instead.

While it looks much the same at web resolution when you zoom in on the high res file, you can see the shell is in sharper focus—look at the rings around the shell as well as the small pebbles nearby to see it—while the castle on the island isn’t.

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For many people, Windows seems to slow down over time. Quite a few people fix this by regularly reinstalling Windows. But do you need to reinstall Windows regularly? And, if so, how often do you need to reinstall it?

Reinstalling Windows is inconvenient. You have to back up all your data, go through the install process, reinstall all your favorite programs, and restore your data. All these activities suck up valuable time.

The main reason people reinstall Windows is that it slows down over time. But why do Windows systems slow down over time?

• Startup Programs: Examine a Windows system that’s slowed down and you’ll likely to find many additional startup programs have been installed, lengthening the boot process, cluttering the system tray with useless icons, and consuming CPU, memory, and other system resources in the background. Worse yet, some computers may come with a considerable amount of unnecessary startup programs out of the box thanks to manufacturer-installed bloatware.
• Explorer Plug-ins, Services, and More: Applications that add shortcuts to Windows Explorer’s context menu can make right-clicking on files take much longer if they’re poorly programmed. Other programs may install themselves as a system service, so they’re running in the background even though you can’t see them. Even if they aren’t in the system tray, useless programs can slow down your PC.
• Heavy Security Suites: Security suites like Norton are often very heavy, consuming a lot of resources to perform all their functions. You don’t need a full security suite—just an antivirus program.
• PC Cleaning Tools: PC cleaning tools are generally scams. Paradoxically, they can make your computer even slower if they add themselves as a startup program and run in the background. The scammiest PC cleaning programs may also install additional spyware and other junk. You can use something like CCleaner instead, but there are even better options.
• Other Junk: Poorly written applications may clutter your system with useless DLL files and fill your registry with unnecessary entries. The worst applications may not clean up properly after themselves, leaving this stuff on your system even after you uninstall them.
• Browser Toolbars: Legitimate browser extensions can slow down your browser enough, but junk add-ons like the terrible Ask.com toolbar can slow things down even more.

In other words, the leading cause of a Windows system slowing down over time is installing junk software.

To keep your Windows system running like new, you need to take proper care of it.

• Install only software you’ll use. Choose well-written, lightweight programs that respect your system instead of slowing it down.
• Pay attention when installing software and avoid installing browser toolbars, spyware, and other garbage software that can slow down your computer.
• Regularly uninstall software you don’t use from the Control Panel. Even useful software may run in the background and slow things down.
• Occasionally use tools like Disk Cleanup to remove the temporary files wasting space on your hard drive. You don’t have to reinstall Windows to get rid of these.
• Take proper care of your web browser, too. Use a minimal selection of browser extensions. If you don’t use a browser extension, uninstall it — it’s just taking up system resources and slowing your browser down for no good reason.
• Carefully select lightweight, minimal security programs. All you need to install on Windows now is an antivirus app and possibly an anti-exploit app. With Windows 10, the built-in Windows Defender plus an anti-exploit app like Malwarebytes make a great combination.
• Use a startup manager tool like the one built into Windows 10 to prune useless programs from your startup process.

If you want to test software without letting it mess up your system, consider installing it in a virtual machine or using a sandboxing tool like Sandboxie to isolate it from the rest of your system. The software won’t be able to mess with your primary operating system—just your virtual machine or sandbox environment.

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1. Utility Service Bind
2. Uninterrupted Service Bus
3. Uniform Sync Bank
4. Universal Serial Bus

Think you know the answer?

Siri has a bad reputation among many, but it’s perfectly usable for most tasks, and if you’re knee-deep in the Apple ecosystem it doesn’t matter how much better a competing digital assistant is because everything ties into Siri. That means that you’re going to need to use it, and that’s pretty easy to do when you know how. Let’s jump in.

Just as is so often the case, this process starts in the Settings app. Launch the app and scroll down before tapping “Siri & Search.”

Beneath the “Ask Siri” heading you will see three toggles. We’d suggest turning them all on:

• Listen for “Hey Siri”: This lets you use the phrase “Hey Siri” to get the digital assistant’s attention.
• Press Side Button for Siri: This lets you press and hold the side button on iPhone X models or the home button on older models to activate Siri.
• Allow Siri when Locked: This lets you invoke Siri via either the side/home button or voice while your iPhone is locked.

You may not like the way Siri sounds by default, but there are multiple voices to choose from depending on the language selected. To start, open the Settings app and tap “Siri & Search.”

Tap “Siri Voice.”

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A gaming PC needs a gaming mouse. OK, OK, it’s true: you can play PC games with a crusty old mouse if you want. But they’re certainly more fun with a shiny new “gaming-grade mouse.”

If you’re just getting into PC gaming, or you’re an old hand looking for a competitive advantage, these are the best options on the market as of late 2018. Logitech’s flexible and surprisingly affordable G502 Hero gets our pick for most people, and we’ve also chosen Logitech’s reliable designs for wireless and budget gamers. But if you’re looking for something specifically for shooters or MOBAs, or you need an ambidextrous mouse for a left-hander, we’ve got you covered for these picks as well.

The G502 Hero will meet all of the needs for most gamers. It uses a segmented body design that’s comfortable, while still giving you access to many more buttons than either a standard PC mouse or a more streamlined “shooter” design. (The extra bindable buttons come in handy for games like Overwatch, where you have multiple weapons, abilities, and ultimates to juggle.) Two rocker buttons and two DPI adjustment buttons, plus the usual two thumb buttons and a “sniper” button for temporary sensitivity adjustments, give a wide array of options without making them overwhelming or hard to distinguish like an MMO mouse.

On top of that you have an frankly insanely powerful 16,000 DPI sensor, adjustable weights in the bottom housing to change feel of the mouse in your hand, and RGB lighting (if you really must). All that for about a $75 street price, handily sliding in beneath some of the more exorbitant gamer mice prices out there. For doing an admirable job with any game and fitting into most players’ budgets, the G502 gets our top pick.

Razer probably has the best marketing of any of the PC gaming accessory suppliers, and it tends to be a bit…much. But in the case of the Basilisk, the company’s boasting is entirely justified. “Shooter” mice tend to focus on essentials, with two big, thumb-friendly buttons on the side (typically bound to melee and throwables). The Basilisk has this, plus a subtle and removable “sniper button” for temporary sensitivity shifts.

Its position at just a little reach for the thumb is ideal, and unlikely to be hit by accident in the heat of battle. The mouse’s scroll wheel can be micro-adjusted for smoother scrolling or more “clicky” operation, an excellent feature for gamers who bind weapon selection to the wheel.

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Excel’s FREQUENCY function lets you count how many times values fall within specific ranges. For example, if you had the ages of a group of people in your spreadsheet, you could figure out how many people fall into different age ranges. Let’s take a look at how to calculate frequency distributions and, with a slight modification, frequency percentages.

Excel’s FREQUENCY array function lets you calculate a dataset’s frequency distribution. You provide the numerical dataset (that’s the actual cells you use as your source), a list of bin thresholds (that’s the categories into which you’re sorting data), and then press Ctrl+Shift+Enter.

So, how might you use it? Well, here’s a quick example. Say you’re a teacher with a spreadsheet that shows all your student’s numerical test scores. You could use the FREQUENCY function to figure out how many students got an A, B, C, D, or F. The numerical test scores are the dataset and the letter grades form your bin thresholds.

You would apply the FREQUENCY function to a list of student’s test scores, and the function would count how many students got which letter grade by comparing each test score to the range of values that define the different letter grades.

If you round scores to the nearest tenth of a percent, these ranges would apply:

F <= 59.9 < D <= 69.9 < C <= 79.9 < B <= 89.9 < A

Excel would assign a score of 79.9 to the C range while a score of 98.2 would fall into the A range.  Excel would go through the list of test scores, categorize each score, count the total number of scores that fall into each range, and return an array with five cells showing the total number of scores in each range.

The FREQUENCY function requires two arrays as inputs: a “Data_array” and a “Bins_array.”  Arrays are simply lists of values. The “Data_array” needs to contain values—like the numerical grades for students—that Excel can compare to a series of thresholds defined in the “Bins_array”—like the letter grades in that same example.

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Audible is awesome. For $15 a month, you get your choice of any audiobook in the collection; for $23 a month, you get two books. But what happens if you download a book by accident or waste a credit on one that sounds like it’s being narrated by Gilbert Gottfried huffing helium? Well, the good news is that if you’re not happy for any reason, you can return your Audible purchases. Here’s how.

Like most of Amazon’s returns policies, Audible’s policy is incredibly liberal. There are a few things to bear in mind, though:

• You must be a member of Audible to return audiobooks.
• You must return the book within 365 days of purchasing it.
• You will be refunded in the same way you bought it; if you paid with a credit, you get a credit back.
• You can return a book even if you’ve listened to it.

Audible’s returns policy is designed so that you feel comfortable trying a random audiobook or different narrator. It’s not so that you can use a single credit to listen to ten books. If Amazon thinks you’re abusing the returns policy, you’ll be unable to return books, customer care will contact you, and your account may be suspended. We don’t have any hard numbers on how many returns you can make. But, if you’re regularly buying audiobooks, listening to them, and then returning them, Audible will notice.

Go to Audible’s web site and log in to your account. For some reason this only works on Audible’s desktop site, not in the mobile app.

Click your name at the top right of the page, and then click “Account Details” on the dropdown menu.

On your account page, click the “Purchase History” option.

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